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The quaint townhouse exterior of this New American Meatpacking staple disguises a trendy first-floor bar with a bustling back garden in summer and two more levels of intimate, low-lit dining framed by exposed brick. The once eclectic restaurant has shed its Southeast Asian accents (and taken a page from overflowing Pastis across the street) in favor of text-book French flavors. There's foie gras with roasted figs, lamb cassoulet served in a cast-iron skillet, and of course, a juicy, crispy-skinned roast chicken. Appetizers show a bit more personality with smoked trout, rather than lardons, providing the salty foil for a frisee salad and the housemade gnocchi starter, speckled with chanterelles and laced with Pamesan, making an ideal side to share, or not to share. — Megan Miller

Watercress and frisee salad, $11; gnocchi, $12, roast chicken, $22