N, R, W at Lexington Ave.-59th St.; 4, 5, 6 at 59th St.
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Salvatore Olivella, the former L’asso and No. 28 pizzaiolo, is back in front of a wood-burning brick oven and hand-pulling homemade mozzarella at 57 Napoli Pizza e Vino, a new (need we say it?) Neapolitan pizza spot above C’est Bon Café in midtown. C’est Bon has converted a former upstairs seating area into what’s being called a “pizza speakeasy” of less than 50 seats where wine and beer by the glass is served from 11 a.m. till 11 p.m. The space isn’t anything fancy (think brick walls, two tops, and a floor-to-ceiling glass window overlooking 57th Street), but as far as lunch options go, it beats the buffets.