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Though its name may sound like a cheesy mariachi shout, Ah! Chihuahua’s intentions seem pure enough. It won’t make you forget that as far as taquerias go, this city is in sore shape; however, there are simple moments of gratification to be had. The straightforward menu is laden with predictable Tex-Mex goodies like nachos and taquitos. Those who can’t make up their minds will find solace in combo platters like the Monterry, which comes with a flauta, a quesadilla, and a chimichanga. The railroad-style space virtually defines the phrase “hole in the wall,” but with terra-cotta floors, exposed-brick walls, and dim lighting, it has a certain charm. Nonetheless, so does your living room, so unless you like lingering in a cavelike, rough-around-the-edges joint, you may want to opt for delivery, and fill up on Ah! Chihuahua’s fast, good-enough grub at home. — Andrew Paine Bradbury

Enchiladas suizas, $11.95; monterry combo, $11.95; fajitas toreadas, $15.95