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Astoria is chockablock with Greek eateries, and Aliada, a block from the Broadway N/W subway stop, is one of the most accessible. Location, location, location must explain its popularity since its brick-walled, noise-intensifying dining room and Plexiglased adjunct don't exactly drip with Aegean charm. As to the menu, fish and meat tend to be charcoal-flamed to a frazzle by the short-order cooks working the galley kitchen. Yet determined diners can make a decent meal thanks to the Levantine appetizers, mezedes. Samplers for one or two include spreads, croquettes, and savory bites such as lean, smoked pork loin—lountza—and halloumi (grilled Cypriot mozzarella). The surest thing may be the house falafel. With its nutty crust, creamy filling, and toothsome tahini dip, this Mediterranean classic summons up its 1970s heyday which you should contemplate over a glass of better-than-you-think Cypriot wine. — Karen Tina Harrison

Falafel, $6.45-$12.50