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Despite a name borrowed from Greek mythology (Amaranth was an imaginary flower said to never fade, not unlike some of the ladies that adorn its tables), all other traces of the beloved coastal country are non-existent. Instead, the refined dishes at this bustling, UES eatery reflect the familiar cuisines of two of its Mediterranean neighbors: France and Italy. Regional appetizers like tomato a la Provençale and finely-sliced prosciutto di Parma topped with tangy chunks of imported buffalo mozzarella satisfy boutique trawlers and deal-brokering businessmen alike. Later in the evening, dapper European couples flood the tiny crimson and gold space for steak tartare spiked with Tabasco and red pepper, wild-mushroom risotto, and thinly-pounded straccetti di vitello. The brick oven-baked focaccia robiola holds EU-niversal appeal; pock-marked flatbread drizzled with aromatic truffle oil forms the double-crust of a fancy pizza packed with creamy robiola cheese, zippy arugula, and diced tomatoes. — Lauren Berger

Prosciutto di Parma, $17; focaccia robiola, $19