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With a name that translates as "sand restaurant," the airy two-story Ammos Estiatorio, its ceiling dotted with suspended beach umbrellas, promises a breezy Aegean-style meal. Servers recommend grilled seafood priced by the pound, which is heightened by the classic Greek combination of olive oil, oregano, sea salt, and lemon juice. At Ammos's rarefied prices though, its patrons are by and large expense-account parties and that breed of diner who doesn't even read the bill—or notice the backdrop of insipid Greek vocal pop. — Karen Tina Harrison

Whole grilled fish, MP