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With a name that translates as "sand restaurant," the airy two-story Ammos Estiatorio, its ceiling dotted with suspended beach umbrellas, promises a breezy Aegean-style meal. Unfortunately, this self-consciously high-end Greek taverna interprets "upscale" to mean "unseasoned." Too many of its regional Hellenic dishes are like joyless spa cuisine. An entree of Chilean sea bass, temptingly described on the menu as being cooked in a clay pot, emerges as a twin set of mushy white chunks that look about as intriguing as oatmeal. Chocolate baklava is mystifyingly devoid of any cacao or honey-nut taste. However, Mediterranean bass "beignets"—flash-fried fish croquettes—work despite a garlic-free accompanying skordalia paste, and meaty skate is nicely prepared with a saffron-lemon glaze. Servers recommend grilled seafood priced by the pound, which is heightened by the classic Greek combination of olive oil, oregano, sea salt, and lemon juice. At Ammos's rarefied prices though, its patrons are by and large expense-account parties and that breed of diner who doesn't even read the bill—or notice the backdrop of insipid Greek vocal pop. — Karen Tina Harrison

Psarokroketes, $12; whole grilled fish and lobster, $25-$28/lb