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This brasserie, with a model guillotine at the entrance, relies on two saving graces: round-the-clock service and a large outdoor patio with a smoking section. It pulls in office workers during the day, theatergoers and out-of-towners for early dinners and late-night steaks. The main dining room works the textbook bistro decorative elements: ceramic roosters, reproduction vintage advertising posters, and deep banquettes. The menu also feels by-the-book, with familiar crowd-pleasers like onion soup, mussels, roast chicken, and salads with a nicely nutty vinaigrette. Crêpes are hit or miss, as with a light, crispy version filled with ratatouille versus a gummy Nutella-and-banana dish. In short, think quick fix, not repeat business. — Jennifer Paull

Crêpe with ratatouille and goat cheese, $13.95