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Several generations of neighbors cycle through this busy American bistro on a daily basis. Parents bring their toddlers for early suppers; the second wave of customers includes Boomers swapping stories about their grown-up kids. Young guns swing by for late-night snacks and a few rounds. Of the two dining areas, the one by the bar is noisier; the back room has comfortable deep banquettes and dim lighting—literally 100 watts for the entire room. Much of the menu belongs to longstanding bar-food favorites like chicken wings, shrimp cocktail, Caesar salad, and steak au poivre. Some of these familiar items, such as lightly breaded, tender calamari, turn out to be the most satisfying. Rich sauces are a common denominator; peppery ones, like the chipotle-spiked sauce that smothers a chicken dish, are best for cutting through the cream. This is not a place that urges you to eat your greens. Other than in salads and creamed spinach, chlorophyll makes itself scarce. Desserts also have a been-there feel but are solidly executed. There's a crème brûlée, of course, densely stippled with vanilla seeds. Served in a broad, shallow dish, it's ideal if you like the crunchy, caramelized topcoat, but swirls of achingly sweet raspberry sauce on the plate recall the eighties. — Jennifer Paull

Calamari, $12; chipotle chicken, $22; crème brûlée, $9