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This upstart meatery, a late entrant in the city's burgeoning cheesesteak derby, is unrelated to three other namesake restaurants around town. Independently owned, and with a laserlike focus on the cheesesteak, they have produced a marvel: The meat is as moist as pudding, and the cheese is a rich, lushly meltable smoked provolone; both come cradled in the unmistakable soft rolls made by the Amoroso bakery in Philadelphia. — Josh Ozersky

Cheesesteak with smoked provolone, $6.45