Profile

Given New York's obsession with fusion food, you might think Indian-Chinese cuisine was invented here. The combination actually dates back centuries to the first Chinese migrations to India, when a new land's seductive spices were applied to the traditional cooking of the old. Mirch is Hindi for spicy, and it's not held in reserve here. The pickled green peppers on the table are only required for the most acclimated of palates, as even pedestrian options like wonton soup are fiery. Crispy okra is dusted with red pepper, lightly battered, and served in a holder usually associated with french fries. Chinese chili paste joins Indian curry leaves in the smoky house chicken appetizer, which is softened by a subtle layer of yogurt. Crispy Szechuan lamb, twice cooked in red and green chilies, stands out among the meat, which steers around both pork and beef in deference to Hindu and Muslim beliefs. A mostly Desi crowd attests to the authenticity of chef and owner Vikram Lulla's creations. The restaurant's small downstairs and expanded second floor have recently been renovated. Naturally, Chinese touches abound: Tasteful celadon-shaded wallpaper with a bamboo motif unites with paper lanterns and framed dragons. The space can get loud, but that's to be expected when cooking generates this much enthusiasm. — Ethan Wolff

Crispy okra, $9; Mirch 65, $9.50; chili garlic noodles with chicken, $11; crispy Szechuan lamb, $16.50