Profile

Ensconced within Chinatown and surrounded by Buddhist temples, a Chinese wedding salon, and a Chinese funeral parlor, this beacon of American short-order cooking turns out the kind of three-egg omelets and fluffy pancakes that can satisfy the deepest greasy-spoon cravings. The overhead menu probably hasn't changed in decades, and the orange cushions on the fixed metal barstools have become rock-hard with time. The cooks' movements seem carefully choreographed to quickly and efficiently turn out textbook diner fare: club sandwiches, burgers, gyros, bagel sandwiches, omelets. Fresh-baked muffin varieties appear daily. You can get almost anything fried (chicken, shrimp, fish sandwich, onion rings). Grilled cheeses come with your choice of cheese (American, Swiss, Cheddar, mozzarella) and add-ons (bacon, ham, tomato). And chocolate milkshakes, made with chocolate ice cream and a gratuitous amount of chocolate syrup, are solid. As it should be in any self-respecting diner, despite the number of takeout orders, service is fast. — Timothy Cooper

Breakfast specials run from 6 a.m. through 11 a.m., and come with two eggs, potatoes, toast, and coffee, tea, or juice.

Blueberry muffin, $1.95; turkey sausage, $3.50