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Diners who think of Brazilian fare as a never-ending parade of beef and more beef are doing themselves a disservice. There's a whole spectrum of food beyond the all-the-meat-you-can-eat rodizios that populate the city, and Little Brazil Street is the place to find it. Once a market and coffee shop, Emporium Brasil has a minimal atmosphere. The tiled dining room, with midgrade lighting and grey walls, could be any restaurant, anywhere. But with ingredients like palm oil, manioc, and dried codfish, the menu isn't standard issue. The flavors—blending African, Caribbean, and Latin influences—are pungent and unusual in everything from hearty stews to rustic grills to delicate sautés. But even in the boldest fusion place, a dish of shrimp, hearts of palm, cheese, and acorn squash, in a broth of orange coconut milk, would seem odd. Here, it's delicious. Of course, the Emporium does have a way with beef, and a Latin flair for the dramatic—steaks arrive on sizzling platters, and all the food is rolled out on tablecloth-covered carts. For homesick Brazilians or jaded foodies, this place can be an unexpected treat. — Melena Ryzik

Do we even need to say it? Soccer is practically as important as cachaça, the Brazilian rum, here; sidle up to the bar for a dose of both.

Camarão na moranga, $20.95; picanha na grelha com arroz, farofa e vinagrete, $25.95