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Food

Critic's Pick Critics' Pick

1569 Lexington Ave., New York, NY 10029 40.788481 -73.948966
at 100th St.  See Map | Subway Directions Hopstop Popup
212-348-0200 Send to Phone

  • Cuisine: American Traditional
  • Price Range: $$

    Key to Prices and ratings

    Upscale
    • Almost Perfect
    • Exceptional
    • Generally Excellent
    • Very Good
    • Good
    Cheap Eats
    • Best in Category
    • Excellent
    • Delicious
    • Very Good
    • Noteworthy
    • Very Expensive
    • Expensive
    • Moderate
    • Cheap
  • Reader Rating:

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    1 Reviews | Write a Review

Photo by Brian Kennedy

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Nearby Subway Stops

6 at 103rd St.

Prices

$11-$18

Payment Methods

American Express, MasterCard, Visa

Special Features

  • Brunch - Weekend
  • Dine at the Bar
  • Notable Wine List
  • Take-Out

Alcohol

  • Beer and Wine Only

Reservations

Recommended

Profile

This venue is closed.

Food, like its precursor in the same spot, Dinerbar, is part diner, part bistro, and part bar, with a spare if comfortable setting, a flat-screen TV for sports-fan barflies, and a heavy emphasis on what has come to be known, for better or worse, as comfort food. But the presentation, the ingredients, and the vivid flavors all surpassed similar dishes elsewhere and pointed to a talent in the kitchen—a modest talent, perhaps, resigned to working within familiar, crowd-pleasing parameters, but intent on doing them a rare justice.

It's smart of Food to keep things simple. One way the restaurant manages to do that is by reining itself in, limiting its menu and offering multiple variations of individual ingredients. Hake, for instance, shows up everywhere—in a plate of tender fish and crisp skin-on chips, in a creamy fish chowder, and in the terrific fish tacos, a generous three-taco plate garnished with cabbage, chipotle mayo, and a vibrant tomatillo salsa. That salsa was the best thing about one night's dry, overcooked salmon. But blackened catfish was delicious, as tasty a hunk of seafood as ever was rubbed with Cajun spices and tossed into a hot cast-iron skillet.

Brunch

Sat.—Sun., noon—4 p.m. (Note: Get the huevos rancheros.)

Ideal Meal

Caesar salad or calamari, fish tacos or blackened catfish with a side of mashed potatoes

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