This venue is closed.
Food, like its precursor in the same spot, Dinerbar, is part diner, part bistro, and part bar, with a spare if comfortable setting, a flat-screen TV for sports-fan barflies, and a heavy emphasis on what has come to be known, for better or worse, as comfort food. But the presentation, the ingredients, and the vivid flavors all surpassed similar dishes elsewhere and pointed to a talent in the kitchen—a modest talent, perhaps, resigned to working within familiar, crowd-pleasing parameters, but intent on doing them a rare justice.
It's smart of Food to keep things simple. One way the restaurant manages to do that is by reining itself in, limiting its menu and offering multiple variations of individual ingredients. Hake, for instance, shows up everywhere—in a plate of tender fish and crisp skin-on chips, in a creamy fish chowder, and in the terrific fish tacos, a generous three-taco plate garnished with cabbage, chipotle mayo, and a vibrant tomatillo salsa. That salsa was the best thing about one night's dry, overcooked salmon. But blackened catfish was delicious, as tasty a hunk of seafood as ever was rubbed with Cajun spices and tossed into a hot cast-iron skillet.
Sat.—Sun., noon—4 p.m. (Note: Get the huevos rancheros.)Ideal Meal
Caesar salad or calamari, fish tacos or blackened catfish with a side of mashed potatoes
New York Magazine Reviews
- Scientists â€‹Pretty Sure Humans Could Eat Food Grown in Martian Soil
- Another Restaurant Bites the Dust on Clinton Street
- A Talented Pastry Chef Will Open a New Bakery in the Rockaways
- This 3-D Food Printer Actually Makes Pizza So You Don’t Have To
- Bergen Hill Relocates to Noho With a Seafood-Heavy Menu