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In Christina Rossetti’s evocatively creepy nineteenth-century poem “Goblin Market,” hideous little men hawk their addictive forbidden fruits to the eventual ruin of fair young maidens—not to read too much into the name Richard Snyder and chef Richard Pelz chose for their new Soho restaurant. Here, in the former Soho Cantina space, Pelz (who’s cooked at Tintol and AZ) tempts all comers with (presumably innocuous) braised pork belly with Madeira reduction, miso-marinated beef salad, and crab salad with avocado mousse and grapefruit. The snug space has been redesigned by restaurateur Alex Freij to look as if it’s been there forever, an increasing rarity in the New York restaurant world. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

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