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With a mosaic gravy boat on its doorstep, Gravy does retro-kitsch right and rises a few notches above the sort of greasy spoon it dresses up as. The twin dining rooms feature brown wood-paneled interiors, diner booths, year-round Christmas lights, the requisite vintage ads, and glass-domed cakes on one counter. Despite the name, the menu offers few gravy-covered options (blackened catfish comes with nicely spicy collard greens; brunchtime pancakes arrive packed with blueberries), although it does take an everything-but-the-kitchen-sink approach to many favorites, serving a turkey burger stuffed with goat cheese, smothered in barbecue sauce, and topped with frizzled onions. If the latter sounds gut-bustingly over the top, it is, and if that's the kind of thing you like, this place is for you. The owners recently turned the backyard into a separate suds-and-grub joint called Trout, which is packed with locals who can't fit into the similarly themed Gowanus Yacht Club nearby. That leaves Gravy open for the neighborhood regulars and families who like a lot of food without a lot of pretension. — Melena Ryzik

Turkey burger, $12