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This whimsical space, where the best tables are wrapped in slinky red fringe, sits waiting to be discovered by fans of father-and-son team Taweewat and Dejthana Hurapan, veterans of Rain on the Upper West Side in its early days. Juicy tamarind-sticky ribs are piled high on a puddle of wild-mushroom-and-Sichuan-pepper sauce with a scattered frizzle of fried leeks. Rare beef tastes charred to order in a spicy salad with lemongrass and Fuji apple. Thin pounded scallop slices wade in a sophisticated saffron-tapioca bath with chopped grape tomatoes. Fingers of crisp duck are just as pleasing alongside spicy green-papaya salad with pomelo as in the Peking-duck entrée, where they are tucked into soft bread pockets and dipped into Cabernet-hoisin sauce. When the crisp fish arrives swirled high, it’s a giggle, but delicious too. Marinated skirt steak and lobster curry are full of flavor, more satisfying than overcooked chicken in a green curry with eggplant and salmon under a soggy crabmeat swamp. Sorbet comes as a slightly too sweet snowball in a dish set on shaved ice, cleverly illuminated from within. — Ethan Wolf

A small crescent-shaped bar in back churns out creative cocktails like the ginger margarita. The small-plates menu, based on Bangkok street food, is available here and in the basement lounge.

Peking duck, $19; Chilean sea bass, $24

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New York Magazine Reviews

• Gael Greene's Full Review (2/5/07)