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Modeled after its East Village sister La Palapa, this intelligent eatery treats Mexican food like a cherished art. No speed bump-sized burritos here. Instead, owners Barbara Sibley and Margaritte Malfy lovingly splash dishes like the sweat-inducing camarones a la diabla and the juicy, cilantro-loaded chicken tacos with a collage of spices. The menu is heated by vibrant salsas, composed of pumpkin seeds, tomatillos and a grocery list of chile peppers (arbol, jalapeño, guallijo, chipotle and poblano, to name several). Mexico City-style micheladas, dark beers spiked with hot sauce and lime juice, might not cool your mouth down, but they will inspire you to pump change into the working jukebox, a clever nod to the 1920s speakeasy that used to call this space home. — Jon Steinberg

Mon.—Fri., $12.95

Brunch
Sat.—Sun., 11 a.m.—5 p.m.; $12.95, including drink

Mondays
The usual $10 corkage fee for wine is waived

Happy Hour
Daily, 5 p.m.—7 p.m., house liquor, wine, beer, sangria, and margaritas half price. Discounted food at the bar.

Arrachera al tequila con jalapeños torreados, $21.95; camarones a la diabla, $18.95