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Welcome to spillover central, where this strategically located corner spot benefits from the hordes shut out from more fashionable Meatpacking neighbors like Pastis, Sascha, and Spice Market. You can snag a sidewalk table if you want a front row view of the other scenes, or join the young daters and gaggles of high-heeled and haltered girls in the familiar, faux-Tuscan farmhouse interior. Candlelight throws a flattering glow not only on patrons; it also sexes up the simple décor of exposed brick, sturdy wooden tables, beamed ceilings, and wine bottles stacked anywhere they'll fit. The menu offers few surprises—all the better not to distract from the preponderance of people-watching. Polpettini, marble-sized meatballs, are well made and come in a mushroom sauce instead of the typical tomato bath; and a hearty porcini, brandy, and Roquefort dipping sauce accompanies a sliced, rosy tagliata steak, although the tender meat is tasty on its own. The rice in zucchini and shrimp risotto, however, can be a bit undercooked and pastry puffs filled with pistachio cream suffer from sogginess. Still, an extensive and affordable wine list leaves the crowd feeling they could have done a lot worse, especially for simply stumbling in. — Kathleen Squires

Sat.—Sun., noon—4 p.m., $24.95. Includes unlimited Champagne, Bellinis, mimosas, or a choice of Bloody Mary or screwdriver, and a broad selection of eggs, panini, pasta, and salads.

Prix-Fixe Lunch
Mon.—Fri., noon—4 p.m., $14

Polpettine, $12; tagliata, $28