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Hotel restaurants typically fall into two categories: statement eateries that would be worth the trip even if you weren't sleeping upstairs (Town), and tourist-heavy standbys with serviceable food (anything in a Marriott). Oscar's, the casual bistro in the Waldorf Astoria, is better than the latter but not quite up to par with the former. Despite a $3 million renovation by Adam Tihany in 1997, the room still feels more like an East Side diner than a part of New York's glamorous culinary past; the charm of the Art Deco touches—frosted glass, soft lighting—is undercut by the waitstaff's plastic nametags. Named for Oscar Tschirky, the famous maitre d' said to have invented the Waldorf salad, the restaurant piles on the coffee shop classics, like turkey clubs and, of course, that namesake salad, while also offering more sophisticated fare. The food suffers from some missteps but is generally okay. Unexpectedly, there's a decent selection of international microbrews. Add to that the phalanx of buffets available for all meals except dinner, and Oscar's does have some appeal, if only to mildly discerning, unadventurous out-of-towners. — Melena Ryzik

Crispy calamari, $9; cheesecake, $6.75