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955-957 Second Ave.,
New York, NY 10022
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Daily, noon-11pm
6 at 51st St.; E, V at Lexington Ave.-53rd St.
$22-$30
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Recommended
An inviting, Mediterranean-tavern sort of ambience—with tiled floors and a white marble bar—makes this double-wide eatery a welcoming sight. The conscientious, relaxed service might also explain why the tables here, including those on the sidewalk and second-floor patio, are often filled, as there's nothing special about the food. Pasta and seafood dishes that sound zesty on the menu seem, on the plate, to have been prepared with indifference. Crab cakes lack any discernable seasoning, and the filling of the phyllo seafood purse, ostensibly a house specialty, could be mistaken for minced tofu. Fettucine d'Aragosta, made with lobster and leeks in a brandy cream sauce, is equally insipid. Even the mixed-berry tart arrives in a puddle of cream that dulls the tang of the fruit. One exception is the squid-ink linguine with arugula and shrimp in what's billed as a "spicy" tomato sauce. Though the dish has no heat to speak of, it does actually possess flavor. The chefs would do well to add the same "spice" to the rest of their menu.
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