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Podunk is a family affair in both atmosphere and practice. Elspeth Treadwell, along with her husband and daughter, runs the small, homey tearoom, populated by shelves of children's books, a pair of skates, and an oven releasing the sweet scents of cupcakes and tarts. The mismatched tables and chairs have a yard-sale feel, with an old wooden swivel chair perched next to an Adirondack. More than 20 tea meals—pastries or sandwiches paired with the brew of your choice—are offered. Inspired by her Scandinavian heritage, Treadwell regularly turns out lefse, Norwegian potato-based flatbread, with savory fillings and horseradish cream; she also serves classics like scones with cream, and cucumber sandwiches, as well as a ratatouille crepe available all week long, and a light, moist cardamom cake. The teas run the gamut from various oolongs (blue tip, golden) to herbal brews and house blends like sage sencha. Hot teas arrive in china pots; iced teas come in Mason jars. It's a self-service establishment, with plenty of house rules: no tipping, no cell phones, no laptops, no sniveling. And just like at home, don't let the screen door slam on your way in or out. — Jennifer Paull

Before you start making your way through cup after cup of tea: There's no bathroom for customers.

Blunt and savory tea, $29; tittle-tattle tea for two, $23