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241 Smith St.,
Brooklyn, NY 11231
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F, G at Bergen St.
$17-$20
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
Not Accepted
This venue is closed.
This Smith Street restaurant, under the direction of former 71 Clinton Fresh Food chef Jason Neroni, accomplishes the difficult feat of reconciling Italian comfort food and the kind of progressive, high-concept gastronomy associated with Neroni and his mentor Wylie Dufresne. Seasonal dishes focus on hearty constructions that don't yearn to be groundbreaking but feature what Americans may consider the more adventurous ingredients of traditional Italian cooking like crispy pig's foot as a topping for skate. Food transformations are not wholly absent; fried pork belly is accompanied by what Neroni deems "melted" cauliflower.
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