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The warm room—and equally warm welcome—explain why this Villager is not only a favorite of nearby St. Vincent's staff, but also of hospital visitors looking for a little Southern Italian comfort. Slate floors, rich cherry wood wainscoting, and leafy potted trees add a natural touch to the restaurant's inviting interior. Regulars get cozy and, taking a cue from the restaurant's name, order a bottle of the specialty red from Puglia. They skip the delicate dishes, like the bland beef carpaccio, and head straight for robust pastas and rustic cuts of meat. Housemade pastas are the darlings here, especially soft cavatelli with a hearty, slightly sweet Bolognese. Big, saucy meatballs bring back memories of grandma, and meaty Cornish hen and veal scallopine saltimbocca arrive in homey, abundant portions. Why do you see so many plates of tiramisu passing through the kitchen doors? One forkful of the light, creamy dessert will give you the answer. — Kathleen Squires

Mon.—Fri., 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m., three-course lunch, $9.95; Sun.—Thu., 4 p.m. to 6 p.m., three-course dinner, $19.95

Brunch
Sat.—Sun. 11:30 a.m.—4 p.m.

Cavatelli alla Bolognese, $14; tiramisu, $6