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From its Midtown location and banker clientele, Ribot would appear to be a by-the-numbers Northern Italian eatery. The soaring, beige and brown space is punctuated by a backlit, free-standing bar that rises nearly two stories high and looks like a massive mahagony and glass armoire. Conservatively bold touches like lime-green banquettes, enormous flower arrangements, and an imposing glass chandelier add to the sleekness. Meals are a tribute to organic produce, hormone-free meats, and Mediterranean coastal cooking styles. Unusual carpaccios feature Portuguese octopus or Kobe beef; grilled flatbreads—small, Greek-style pizzas—are vehicles for flavor-intense ingredients like anchovies and olives. And mushrooms, pesto, beans of all types, and other Ligurian staples adorn the pasta selections, like the homemade gnocchi, a mix of airy, irregular, potatoey lumps, huge, spongelike morsels, and bright green fava beans. The pork braciole is an amazingly tender boneless pork chop from Upstate New York, bathed in a caramelized peach and butter sauce that drips onto a bed of crispy Yukon gold potatoes and peas. Desserts that change by the season are another pleasant surprise, like honey-glazed Anjou pears, and a strawberry crostata with a rose-petal ice cream. — Timothy Cooper

Next time you’re buying and trying to impress, remember Ribot’s $19 three-course prix fixe lunch, available from noon–2:30 p.m.