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Stove

45-17 28th Ave., Queens, NY 11103 40.763562 -73.909562
nr. 45th St.  See Map | Subway Directions Hopstop Popup
718-956-0372 Send to Phone

  • Cuisine: American Traditional, Bistro, Irish/English
  • Price Range: $$

    Key to Prices and ratings

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  • Reader Rating:

    7 out of 10

      |  

    3 Reviews | Write a Review

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Nearby Subway Stops

M, R at 46th St.

Prices

$10.95-$25

Payment Methods

MasterCard, Visa

Special Features

  • Brunch - Weekend
  • Dine at the Bar
  • Outdoor Dining

Alcohol

  • Full Bar

Reservations

Accepted/Not Necessary

Profile

This venue is closed.

The challenge for Stove chef-owner Declan Cass is to attract both the old-timers and the Manhattan transplants in rapidly gentrifying eastern Astoria. His solution is to look like he’s playing it safe. Stove’s long, narrow dining room is primly done in nautical white, with a tile floor. (The red-walled bar area adds a splash of color.) Tried-and-true renditions of beef, pork, chicken, fish, and pasta dot the menu. But while the Irish-born chef’s far-ranging menu bends to the something-for-everyone philosophy, with dishes like roasted beet salad and Soho-style steak frites for the nabe’s newcomers, and mid-century Continental dishes like seafood vol-au-vent and shrimp scampi for the mom-and-pop crowd, the cooking transcends the formulaic. A starter of four succulent, dino-sized barbecued ribs gets attention with a tongue-sassing sugar-and-vinegar sauce and pickled onion-carrot slaw. A one-pound shell steak—Stove’s priciest entree, and well worth it—is artfully cut, tenderly cooked, and accompanied by a fresh-made peppercorn cream sauce. It’s not easy for a neighborhood restaurant to appeal to disparate locals, but Stove is gambling that New Yorkers, no matter what ilk, will respond to good food.

Extra

Stove’s handsome carved-wood bar is a comfort station for single diners, where they savor solo meals composed of chef Declan Cass’s soup du jour and ample ribs appetizer or a well-composed Cobb salad, all washed down with a glass of pinot noir.

Recommended Dishes

Barbecued ribs, $8.95; shell steak, $25; Wiener schnitzel, $15.95

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