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The serene gardens and cobalt lanterns of Battery Park's South Cove help lend an air of refinement to what would otherwise be an undistinguished Japanese restaurant. Dark wood and a drab paintjob lead patrons to involuntarily gaze outside of the space; if the cloudy windows block the attractive view, you can opt for outdoor seating, which makes full use of the atmospherics: sculptural stones and driftwood pergolas sticking out of mossy soil, plus a distant view of Lady Liberty. Since the main courses at Wave never meet the riches of the restaurant's setting, some savory soups and tweaked-up rolls are left to answer the waterfront's call for fresh seafood: Drolly named house rolls marry a smear of cream cheese with eel and avocado; a squirt of cement-hued jalapeño-sesame sauce hides the day-old-oil taste of tempura shrimp. If oversized pieces of sashimi, overcooked entrees, and overly complex sushi inspire you to lay down the chopsticks, you can at least lift your glass of Asahi and make a toast to your surroundings. — Alexandra Vallis

Ginger soup, $4; gotta have this roll, $8