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The clientele of single diners and small groups of friends are simply after fiery Szechuan food. The chilled noodles with spicy sesame vinaigrette are served with a tangle of spaghetti-like noodles heaped over a savory sauce lit with the blood-orange glow of chili oil. The mild noodles, sweet sesame, sharp vinegar, and chili oil combine to make the dish much greater than its parts. And the addictive steamed Chengdu dumplings swim in a broth made with chili oil—the pockets of pork and greens play well against the spicy sauce. For main courses, it's hard to beat the enormous prawns, battered with their shells on and then fried in a wok. They’re heavily salted and sprinkled with a spice mixture that carries the tingle of Szechuan peppercorns. Another popular choice, the braised beef filets and Napa cabbage with roasted chili, is more meat than green, with a garlicky sauce broken up by steamed cabbage, shards of crisp celery, and slightly chewy marinated beef. — John D. Rambow