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An affinity for mutton wouldn't hurt, though a love of offal isn't necessary to enjoy the northern Chinese fare at this unassuming eatery off Flushing's main drag. Indeed, the very first menu item listed is lamb testicles; eyeballs, gizzards, and "good flavored stomach" are next. Still, plenty of delicious options await for those not ready to take the organ plunge. Lamb with hot pepper sauce is bluntly named; the thin, earthy slices of meat are nearly outnumbered by dried red chilies and peanuts. (Be sure to add crushed Sichuan peppercorns which have a nearly floral flavor.) Grilled meat rubbed with cumin showcases the Xinjiang style, which uses that spice liberally; diners cut strips from smallish, bone-in lamb legs and dip them into a saucer of salt and Sichuan pepper. A salad that treats parsley and cilantro like standard salad greens, tossed with vinegar and green chilies, is a bracing accompaniment to fleshier entrees. While not on the menu, pitchers of beer poured from a stand-alone tap near the front door turn up on many tables, which sit amid an array of random foliage, like synthetic orchids, plastic bonsai fir trees, and potted lucky bamboo. — Krista Garcia

Lamb with hot pepper sauce, $9.95; lamb leg with pepper and salt, $6.95; parsley with pepper, $4.55