ABC Cocina

The Latin-themed Jean-Georges ABC outlet is not quite as tightly focused as the famous farm-and-table establishment across the department-store hall, but when you factor in the range of the food (inventive tacos of every kind, wood-grilled vegetables, bountiful platters of well-marinated steak and chicken) and the myriad jolly boozing opportunities (call for the grapefruit margaritas early and often), you could argue that it’s a good deal more fun. In addition to the margaritas, the bar serves jugs of very good New Age sangria spiked with passion fruit (white wine) and/or hibiscus (red wine), The modestly priced desserts — a respectable flan, the inevitable plate of fritters — are designed for facility and are more or less worth what you pay for them. The lone exception is a soft, crumbly wedge of layered almond cake, which is frosted a bright-ivory white on its top and tastes like something you’d encounter at an elegant, well-catered wedding in the south of Spain.