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The simple décor at this cozy eatery—unadorned white walls, plain black wooden tables, lacquer-red-painted floor—belie the complexity of the flavors whipped up in its tiny kitchen. Chef and co-owner Abdoul Gueye originally hails from Senegal, and many of his dishes, like the Akara starter, cayenne-dusted black-eyed-pea fritters, and the West African chicken salad, have the spice and soul of his home country. But the menu also features classic French fare like moules and steak frites as evidence of the years Gueye spent studying in Paris and working in the kitchen of La Goulue. The Senegalese fried chicken, served with pineapple-infused jasmine rice cake, is savory but not as crispy as American palates might expect; the sublimely spicy bread pudding, however, served with warm caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream, may be among the more delectable versions you're ever likely to try. The restaurant is a warm, friendly, family affair: Gueye's wife Cassandra manages the dining room, and their daughter Sonia can often be seen with her coloring books at a back table near the kitchen. — Sarah Gold

Sat.—Sun., noon—3 p.m.