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When the smash pint-size bar Earl’s Beer & Cheese became perennially jammed for its eclectic beer and food selection, it didn’t take long for its owners to roll out this larger, slightly more refined spot around the corner. The vibe and look are more Brooklyn than Upper East Side, with brick walls, high ceilings, and antique wood; creative small plates seem like something out of Kings County (or maybe downtown Manhattan) as well. Chef Corey Cova worked at Momofuku and his fried-chicken bun is a clear nod to David Chang’s pork rendition; unfortunately, breaded chicken breast lacks the succulence of pork belly, and there’s not enough miso mayo to keep this morsel from coming off as dry. Fish tacos are more successful, plump nicely breaded chunks of fish of the day with guac and a kimchi slaw. For vegetarians, there's braised eggplant with rice cakes, and a veggie medley enlivens pillowy gnocchi, sweet and silky with brown butter. — Jenny Miller