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Of the three stylish Thai places Parkpoom Watanasuparp has opened in Hell’s Kitchen so far (Aura and Q2 are the others), Aceluck feels the coziest. It’s not just the tiny room painted in soothing moss and yellow stripes. Nor is it the affable servers, eager in spite of the language gaps. It’s the kitchen, which turns out kicky, homey fare that lives up to the restaurant’s name, a phonetic rendering of “unique” in Thai. Along with straightforward renditions of native noodle dishes and curries, Aceluck offers spicy, dense larb made with chicken, beef, or pork, and delicious yums, the bracing Thai salads with meat or seafood spiked with perspiration-inducing chili-and-lime juice. Attempts at fusion are less successful, but the desserts will revive your palate. The sliced mango with warm sticky rice is as close to comfort food as Bangkok gets. — Michael Kaminer

Tom ka soup, $3.95; panang curry with chicken, $8.95; yum chef’s special, $10.95