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Having opened two other restaurants in the neighborhood, Sicilian-born chef Sebastiano Cappitta knows how to bring Sicilian and Sardinian fare to the masses: he keeps it cozy, generic, and well-priced. The trattoria is housed under beige-colored sails of canopied fabric in a warm, low-lit rectangular space with terracotta-colored walls. His centerpiece wood-fired oven churns out crispy pies thick with mozzarella, ricotta and parmigiano cheese, while his handmade pastas shine—simple, traditional dishes marked by few ingredients, like house signatures Malloreddus alla Campidanese with pork sausage and spicy tomato ragu, or gnocchi slathered in cremini and porcini mushroom sauce. The modest wine list (just nine red and nine white) is carefully chosen to adhere to the Sicilian and Sardinian theme. Nearby Symphony Space siphons in crowds, and it’s not unusual to share elbowroom with a bridal party. — Hillary Kaylor

Whole wheat pasta and pizzas available upon request.

Pizze bianca, $14