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Square must be the new round judging by Adrienne's, a stylish joint venture from father-and-son restaurateurs Harry and Peter Poulakakos (Bayard's, Financier Patisserie, Ulysses) and Nick Angelis of Nick's Pizza fame. Although his superb signature round pie is on the menu, the big news is that Angelis has delved into the rarefied world of thin-crust square, or "grandma"-style pizza. Inspired by Brooklyn's Di Fara and its thin-crust Sicilian pie as well as the trend-setting grandma version at King Umberto's on Long Island, he's crafted a pizza that—dare we say it?—could surpass them both. It's wonderfully crisp, exquisitely balanced, and topped with a winning combo of oven-cooked chopped tomatoes, fior di latte, mozzarella, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and pecorino. Antipasti, salads, and baked pastas round out the menu. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Reservations are only accepted for parties of 6 or more and only during dinner hours or on weekends.

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• Eat Cheap 2009: A Who’s Who of Pizzaioli (7/20/09)
• Eat Cheap 2009: The Top 20 Pizzas of the Moment (7/20/09)
• Cheap Eats Guide 2006 (8/7/06)