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Cyprus-born chef-partner Christos Christou operates on the refined edge of Astoria’s Greek-dining spectrum at Aegean Cove. The large main room, painted a deep, autumnal gold, has a dark-wood bar and access to a rooftop terrace. Christou’s an alum of Manhattan’s Milos and Avra, so classics here have exceptional flavor and some flair. The dips platter features an unexpectedly hot and smoky red-pepper spread, and grilled octopus arrives as the tender ideal. Christou’s estiatorio experience means ocean-fresh, delicately grilled fish, but he also turns out brawny meat dishes including gamy louganika sausage and lamb shanks braised to confitlike tenderness. Desserts also offer some tasty surprises, like the delicious chocolate baklava. — Karen Tina Harrison

Aegean Cove features a Hellenic duo on Thursday nights, vocalist Aphrodite Daniel and keyboardist Panos Chrysovergis, who are known in these circles.

Beyond ouzo and retsina
The restaurant’s moderately priced wine list spotlights Greek wines.

Octopus, $14; fried mussels, $8; braised lamb, $22; grilled fish, market price; chocolate baklava, $5