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As the main draw in this no-frills one-room spot, kebabs get special treatment: They’re fired in a charcoal oven and served off the skewer alongside fluffy basmati rice redolent with cardamom, flat Afghan bread, and a palate-cleansing simple lettuce salad. The jumbo-shrimp kebab is marinated liberally in tandoori masala spices that ratchet up the red coloring and kick. A terrific yogurt with hints of mint and dill accompanies everything from tangy spinach pies to aushak, a thin, boiled leek dumpling piled with ground beef flavored by scallions, ginger, and chile flakes. Among the stews, chicken korma will likely disappoint fans of the creamier curry version served in Indian restaurants. Here, it consists of chicken, tomatoes, and potatoes that languish in a thin, oil-based sauce. Kilim-patterned cloths cover tables in the dining room, and stuccoed walls are hung with plates decorated by gold Arabic script. In another nod to authenticity, there’s no alcohol in the house, but you’re free to BYOB. — Kate Appleton

Shrimp kebab, $17, aushak, $5