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In the past, Agnanti has distinguished itself from the considerable Astoria competition with its impossibly tender grilled octopus, its signature rooster pasta, and the Turkish dishes that Constantinople’s Greek community adopted as its own. A 80-seat Brooklyn branch clones this winning formula, from the mostly Greek wine list and compellingly soggy oat-rusk salad down to the bric-a-brac and pottery that adorn the interior. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld