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Over-the-top décor and high-quality pan-Asian fare are served up in equal measure at this Midtown Asian outpost. Inside the main dining area just past the sushi bar, colored lights illuminate a six-foot-tall Buddha like a 70s-era rock star. Underneath, the stone pond and an inset floor aquarium gurgle with live carp. Exposed gray-brick walls and stylish dark natural wood tables add sophistication even as the amusement park feel persists. A broad list of starters—like Chilean Sea Bass skewers—complements a pan-Asian menu that leans heavily on high-quality, market-fresh sushi. And for good reason: The tuna is tender, and the mackerel and yellowtail taste as though they were pulled from the sea the same hour. The menu's Asian-inflected hot entrees will appeal to those with more land-based palates—Peking duck, plus steak, chicken, and lamb chops with mild chili glazes. There's also the signature Ishi-Yaki: Thin slices of Kobe beef, chicken, or filet mignon are grilled on a heated stone that's placed over a miniature grill tableside. The sight of diners cooking their own meat is apropos for a room guarded by a life-sized Buddha. — John Vorwald

Sushi and sashimi for two, $68; Ishi-yaki, $20-$50