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Sushi is to Murray Hill as Szechuan once was to the Upper West Side: ubiquitous, ordinary, and of varying quality. Aji, which replaced neighborhood stalwart Okura in 2004, adds nothing new to the formula. With blond-wood accents, lacquered chairs and tables, and a rather forlorn sushi bar in back, it’s basically a generic neighborhood spot geared to answer those lazy “Where-should-we-eat?” moments. Competent appetizers, like sweet hijiki or tuna-avocado salad, arrive on beds of iceberg lettuce; sashimi quality fluctuates dramatically, with telltale iridescence making an occasional appearance on tuna and yellowtail. Like most restaurants on this busy Third Avenue strip, Aji attracts a mix of office drones and residents in their twenties attended to by brisk but friendly servers wearing body-conscious T-shirts. — Michael Kaminer

Golden dragon roll, $10.50; spicy triplets roll, $10.95; black and white roll, $12.50