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Improbably located on a street that serves as an exit for the Queens Midtown Tunnel, Akane is a workaday Japanese spot for Murray Hill residents. The décor is a study in wood, from the cherrywood floors to the walnut tables, chairs, and sit-down sushi bar. The walls are painted yellow and are accented, strangely, with period photos of Old New York. Odder is the ceiling, adorned with a trellis that’s festooned with plastic grapes and leaves. Luckily, the menu is predictable: a Nipponese array of raw fish, noodle dishes, and grilled and simmered fare. Appetizers are a mixed bag: Gyoza are soggy and bland, but mixed tempura is serviceable. Sweet shrimp get a crispy panko coating and are nicely complemented by batter-dipped onions, zucchini, pumpkin, sweet potato, and broccoli. Sushi is solid; the 28 house-special rolls are the draw. The Titanic maki is a tasty inside-out roll with spicy salmon and crunchy bits within, topped with avocado and neon-green, wasabi-spiked flying-fish roe. — Michael Anstendig

Mixed tempura, $7.50; Titanic maki, $9.50