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Akashi

Critic's Pick Critics' Pick

14 Christopher St., New York, NY 10014 40.73377 -74.002645
nr. Gay St.  See Map | Subway Directions Hopstop Popup
212-367-2067 Send to Phone

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  • Cuisine: Japanese/Sushi
  • Price Range: $$$$

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Photo by Melissa Hom

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Official Website

akashi.nyc

Hours

Mon-Sat, 5:30pm-midnight; Sun, closed

Nearby Subway Stops

N, R at 8th St.-NYU; F, G at 15th St.-Prospect Park

Prices

Omakase: $200

Payment Methods

American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

Special Features

  • Open Kitchens / Watch the Chef
  • Private Dining/Party Space
  • Special Occasion
  • Online Reservation

Alcohol

  • Beer and Wine Only

Reservations

Required

Profile

If you’re saving up pennies for your annual omakase night out, you’ll get much more bang for your buck than typical at a restrained new basement establishment in the West Village called Akashi. The operator is a young chef who can trace his lineage, through several degrees of sushi-god separation, back to master practitioners of the art like Naomichi Yasuda and even the great Jiro himself. Yoichi Akashi has worked at Sushi Yasuda and as chef de cuisine for New York’s Jiro disciple Daisuke Nakazawa, but his specialty here is the elaborate kappo branch of the omakase experience, which involves the preparation (kappo means to “cut” and “cook” in Japanese) of a whole blizzard of specialty dishes in front of the paying customer. When I sidled up to the snug, ten-seat bar one wintry evening, these included tender chunks of horse mackerel sizzled in panko and rosy squares of Japanese beef cooked on a hot lava stone from Mount Fuji, in addition to the usual tastes of toro and first-class uni fished from the chilly waters of Hokkaido. But the unexpected stars of this marathon 20-course, $200 production are the traditional, refreshingly simple home-cooked soups and stews, like shabu-shabu made with ivory slices of grouper; cloudy bowls of miso garnished with orange, almost-wriggling head-on shrimp; and a nourishing broth of bonito, matsutake mushrooms, and steamed conger pike poured like soothing afternoon tea into tiny clay cups.

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