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Bring a book to read while you nibble on serviceable sushi, sashimi, or teriyaki at this utilitarian neighborhood joint. You might as well get it here, in an intimate space with blond-wood walls and dim lighting; it's near-empty most nights but with privacy, a rare commodity in town. In contrast to so many big, cell phone-size slabs of raw tuna served around the city, fish here is sliced smaller and thinner, closer to traditional Japanese style and more graceful to maneuver into the mouth. Although sushi and sashimi platters are competent and fresh, the colorful inside-out maki rolls adorned with avocado and orange salmon roe are more exciting: Some sport whimsical names, like the "under-control roll"—spicy chopped tuna and sweet, tender tempura shrimp on the inside, and crunchy tobiko and bonito flakes on the outside. The sushi bar in the back is where the action is—the chefs hustle to keep up with take-out orders. Just know that you'll have to share your space with the caravan of I-heart-NY delivery bags lined up on the counter. — Kara Newman

This restaurant is not affiliated with Aki Sushi on the West Side or downtown.

Under-control roll, $13; wasabi roll, $10; spicy tuna maki, $6