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Chef-owner Siggy Nakanishi used to cook for the Japanese ambassador to the West Indies, which accounts for freaky fusion rolls like spicy tuna with fried banana. But fanciful sushi isn't all you'll find at this brick-walled aerie four stairs removed from the West 4th Street hubbub: There's also the daily roster of off-the-wall specials, every bit as inventive as menu staples like the eel napoleon with fried tofu and mashed pumpkin and the salmon-mozzarella-and-basil summer roll with a tiny gravy boat of balsamic sauce. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Tuna and fuji apple mille-feuille, $9