Profile

Long a favorite of United Nations delegates and the in-the-know Midtown set, Al Bustan serves the most refined Lebanese cuisine in town. But does the kitchen do enough to justify the tariff, which can be two or three times what you'd pay for the same menu items at the typical Middle Eastern restaurant? Certainly, the cream-colored minimalist dining room and attentive service add some value, and the elegance of the presentations adds some more. Still, it's an expensive way to eat hummus. — Steven A. Shaw

Reservations are accepted only for groups of 3 or more.

Samboussek (dumplings stuffed with minced meat), $6.50; grilled kafta (minced skewered lamb with chopped onions, spices, and parsley), $22.50