Alidoro

The rating scale of 0 to 100 reflects our editors’ appraisals of all the tangible and intangible factors that make a restaurant or bar great — or terrible — regardless of price.

85 Very Good

Terrific Italian heros in many permuations on good bread.

105 Sullivan St., New York, NY, 10012

212-334-5179

Known For

The lowdown

This pint-sized sandwich shop and Soho institution is known as much for what it offers its customers (well-constructed, exquisitely dressed Italian heros on a range of good breads) as for what it does not (chips, pickles, glasses of water, forks, spoons, knives, plates, bathrooms, and a tolerance for those who don’t order by sandwich name). Old-timers remember the place when it was called Melampo and run by a temperamental Tuscan named Allesandro Gualandi whose least favorite saying was “the customer is always right.” His understudy and eventual successor, Walter Momente, is, by comparison postively chipper, but his sandwiches are just as delicious, especially the Romeo (smoked chicken, Bel Paese, hot-pepper dressing, arugula) and the Vivaldi (tuna, provolone, eggplant caponata).

Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

What you need to know

Recommended DishesRomeo, Vivaldi, and Pinnochio sandwiches

DrinksNo Alcohol

Noise LevelCivilized