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Chinese diners are inordinately fond of Western food, as restaurants like Almond Flower demonstrate. The restaurant has Chinese owners, a Chinese chef, and a largely Chinese clientele, but its menu consists largely of Italian and French dishes, occasionally tinged with a Chinese influence. The room reflects this orientation: With its muted lighting and exposed-brick walls, it looks much more like a Manhattan bistro than a Chinatown eatery. Unfortunately, the execution in the kitchen tends to be on the poor side. A few dishes do stand out, especially the “crispy spaghetti,” fried in the style of Singapore noodles then softened with tomato sauce. Throw in a few old-fashioned meatballs and some cheesy garlic bread to complete the baffling, but enjoyable, effect. — Josh Ozersky

Crispy spaghetti and meatballs, $17.95