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This pale yellow, split-level ranch with its red wooden railing, strung with cheery tiny white paper lanterns, suggests an idealized, laid-back beach house. That sense of casual whimsy continues inside, with gold-and-red circus-print wallpaper and a skilled wait staff who serve dependable bistro fare with a side of good humor. Regular plats du jour (Monday means coq au vin), garlicky escargots, and steak au poivre anchor an ever-changing rotation of entrées, like moist, fresh-caught Montauk flounder, set on a bed of wilted spinach with slices of roasted fennel. This and other East End bounty are in good company with stellar à la carte sides like broad, homemade noodles laced with truffle oil or buttery fava beans with a splash of white wine and sautéed fennel. The bar scene can get lively, so if it’s quiet sustenance you seek, arrive early for the nightly steal—a $24.95 three-course prix fixe supper, from 6 p.m. to 7 p.m. — Amy Zavatto

Daily, 6 p.m.–7 p.m.

Escargot, $11