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From the flashing neon sign that announces its name to the overdone, mirror-clad dining room (Welcome, narcissists. Here, almost every surface reflects you.), the Ambassador Grill is not subtle. Located in the Millennium Hotel—and in the shadow of the United Nations—maybe it can’t afford to be. Hotel restaurants face enough challenges without having to stand out amidst the mix of cultures that pass through the UN. In an effort to please all guests, the menu strives to be international, with dishes ranging from Thai seared tuna to New Zealand rack of lamb and Jamaican jerk chicken. The bold flavors mostly translate as overkill but sometimes they work: A blue cheese-topped filet mignon is nothing if not savory, a tender five-spice duck is appropriately brash, and a smoked salmon salad is rich and creamy. Overall, hotel guests don’t seem to mind the generally disappointing fare—or maybe they’re just distracted by all those mirrors. — Melena Ryzik