R at 86th St.
American Express, Diners Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Bay Ridge, Fort Hamilton, Dyker Heights
This venue is closed.
The heaping portions of rich, intensely seasoned dishes that chef Ken Deiner creates would make his Italian grandmother Amelia—the cook and restaurateur who was his inspiration—proud. A pan-fried appetizer of spiedini alla Romana sandwiches Deiner’s own fresh mozzarella between egg-battered slices of bread and gets a kick from Parmesan and a zesty anchovy sauce; it’ll feed two. Mains like aragosta e gamberi alla Francese (giant prawns and lobster in a lemony butter sauce) and saltimbocca alla Romana (seared veal medallions layered with prosciutto and sage in a white-wine demiglace) could each feed a small family. The restaurant’s small scale—there are just eleven tables inside the cozy, red-walled dining room, and about fifteen more outside on a fenced-in patio lit by tiki torches—lets the chef play mother hen among his diners. When he gets a break from the stove, Deiner wanders among the tables, chatting up regulars, many of whom are couples from the neighborhood out for an evening away from the kids.Recommended Dishes
Spiedini alla Romana, $9.95; saltimboca alla Romana, $18.50; aragosta e gamberi alla Francese, $24.95; bisteca alla Griglia, $39.95