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Columbia students gravitate to this local institution—which has been frying falafel balls since the Nixon Administration—for the affordable Middle Eastern fare. Just nine tables and a long banquette make up the casual, mirror-bedecked dining room. The signature falafel is golf-ball-sized, warm, and creamy good when it arrives at the table; keep in mind that once it cools down and hardens, it loses its luster. There’s no rush to eat the pickled-turnip-laden hummus somewhat overspiked with citrus. The toasted chicken wrap, stuffed with chicken, turnips, and French fries doused with a robust garlic sauce, however, is an entire magical meal wrapped into a thin pita. — David Farley